Lemarié

In the flower workshop, every creation is crafted by hand. Crochet hook, knife, rainette, pliers, tweezers, mandrel or ball tool, crimping iron—an exceptional heritage of centuries-old tools, of which the Maison remains the custodian to this day. Petal by petal, the artisans recreate the delicacy of nature, bringing to life bouquets of irises, anemones, daisies, or roses, whilst also inventing new varieties. 

Sophisticated smocking, gathering, ruching, fraying, inlays, ethereal flounces—these many finishes bring life and texture to the fabric. Within the Maison, the sewing workshop serves as a hub where the creations of the other workshops come together, but also as a laboratory for researching fabric effects. 

In the Atelier Lognon, which specialises in pleating, the fabric is shaped using thousands of cardboard moulds, enabling the creation of intricate fancy pleats. The fabric is delicately inserted into these moulds through a series of precise movements, executed by a pair of pleating artisans in a synchronised ballet. More than 3,000 pleating moulds with graphic shapes now make up a unique library of its kind, constantly enriched with new additions. From sun or Watteau pleats to the most daring architectural patterns, each of these techniques tells a story of patience and ingenuity. The transmission of these delicate techniques takes place solely within the workshop, as there is no formal training dedicated to this rare craft. 

The Maison's final area of expertise, the art of textile finishing, is practised by the artisans at Maison Lemarié, who enhance fabrics and trimmings through colour and textural effects. Reliefs, metallic sprays, prints or dyes, embossing, and brush application form a laboratory of experimentation for fashion and interior design. 

At Lemarié, passing on knowledge is a fundamental part of the process, fuelled by patient observation and the repetition of movements that, over time, become second nature. A craft as much as a vocation, passed on to the artisans who join the Maison as well as to young trainees and apprentices from various institutions, such as the Lycée Octave-Feuillet, the only school in Europe to teach the art of feather work or fabric flowers. The Maison also trains apprentices in the art of pleating, for which there is no specific school. In this way, from generation to generation, the artisans can ensure the preservation of this precious artisanal heritage. 

In the 1960s, Gabrielle Chanel entrusted Lemarié with the task of creating the camellia, a flower she established as a timeless emblem. Since then, nearly 25,000 camellias have been produced each year in the Parisian workshops. They are crafted from silk, muslin, organza, velvet, tweed, denim, raffia, and acetate, like an infinite alphabet at the service of fashion. This dialogue between traditional craftsmanship and innovation embodies the very spirit of the Maison. In 2006 and again in 2019, the Maison integrated the florists Guillet and Légeron, specialists in fabric flowers, and, with them, a unique collection of tools. 

As it has grown over time, Lemarié has also developed the art of couture and textile manipulation, as well as the art of pleating, with the integration of Atelier Lognon, a renowned pleater, which has expanded its creative universe.  

Finally, since 2023, Atelier Dynale, specialising in the remarkable art of textile finishing, has completed this wide range of practices.  

In 1996, Lemarié joined CHANEL’s Métiers d’art ecosystem. Since 2021, Lemarié has been a resident at le19M.