les Ateliers Lognon

Throughout its history, Atelier Lognon has developed a complete mastery of all types of pleats: flat, accordion, Watteau, Fortuny, tubular, conical, sunburst—a rich lexicon of technical and creative excellence that speaks to its virtuosity.

The Maison also stands out for its mathematical ability to project a flat design into three dimensions, recalling the principle of anamorphosis. Thus, the desired pattern, which is initially abstract, is only revealed once the fabric is pleated: the workshop crafts countless variations in the service of the most exceptional creations.

In addition to these great classics, the Maison is also the custodian of a rare expertise: that of so-called “fantasy pleats,” interlaced folds that create complex 3D effects, which in turn can take the form of a flower, a fan, a ribbon, or origami. Behind these poetic names lies work of extreme complexity: each type of pleat exists only in relation to the fabric on which it is applied. Over time, Atelier Lognon has gradually expanded its scope: alongside silk, crepe, tulle, chiffon, organza, and velvet, new materials have been introduced, such as leather and polyester, or more unexpected examples, like raffia, cork, or even plastic. This ability to adapt and constantly reinvent themselves speaks to the vocation of the pleater: to put their expertise at the service of an artistic vision, in order to respond precisely to the demands of designers.

The savoir-faire of Atelier Lognon

ATELIER LOGNON (C) Alix Marnat 08 — © le19M x Alix Marnat

Nothing would be possible without the mould itself, which starts out with a design drawn on kraft paper. This process, once entirely manual and requiring up to three months’ work for a sophisticated pattern, now benefits from digital techniques, without losing its artisanal character, which demands extreme delicacy. Each line is then “creased” by hand, using the fingertips, thus forming the mould that will create the fold. This is the result of patient and meticulous work, requiring total concentration: even the slightest error in folding the cardboard inevitably affects the fabric.

Once the loom is set up, the fabric is delicately fed into it by artisans’ rhythmic movements. This technique, passed down from master to apprentice, remains at the heart of the process. Positioning the fabric requires constant attention: it must be perfectly smooth, neither too taut nor too loose, before the loom is closed by a subtle interplay of weights. At this stage of the process, the cardboard is completely opaque: the artisan therefore works blind, relying solely on his experience and sense of touch. For certain pleats, such as the accordion pleat, this meticulous work is carried out, as in the early days, through a four-handed ballet requiring perfect harmony between a pair of pleating artisans. Once the loom is closed, it is then placed in a heated oven where the temperature ranges from 65 °C to 120 °C, where it remains for between one and two hours depending on the nature of the fabric.

ATELIER LOGNON (C) Alix Marnat 05 — © le19M x Alix Marnat

The setting process is followed by drying, which is just as carefully controlled, allowing the shape to set permanently in the fabric; the result only becomes apparent once the loom has cooled completely. Here too, empirical knowledge plays a decisive role, as each fabric to be pleated has its own specific requirements. Pleating is an art taught nowhere else, and the transmission of this craft mirrors its practice: slow, gradual, and always collective.

ATELIER LOGNON (C) Alix Marnat 04 — © le19M x Alix Marnat

As there are no schools or formal training courses, it is at the heart of Atelier Lognon that apprentice pleaters learn by observing the artisans, repeating their movements and immersing themselves in the patience and rigour of the daily work that defines them, so that new vocations may then emerge from this practice. Today, Atelier Lognon is committed to preserving this rare savoir-faire, anchoring it in the third millennium. Far from limiting themselves to the preservation of a tradition, Lognon’s artisans work every day to adapt it, aware that the longevity of a craft also depends on its ability to renew itself. The memory of the Maison, carefully preserved in its archives, engages in a dialogue with innovation, enabling Atelier Lognon to remain true to its role: that of a discreet workshop, dedicated to the beauty of gesture and capable of accompanying the most ambitious visions.

The history of the Maison

Atelier Lognon was founded in 1853, in the heart of Paris during the Second Empire. At that time, women’s fashion followed Empress Eugénie’s passion for voluminous pleats. Émilie Lognon, a fine linen maker, used her irons to create lasting relief patterns in her fabrics. This expertise was initially passed down within the family, carried forward by descendants who, generation after generation, adapted and perfected it.

The destiny of Atelier Lognon was intertwined with that of Haute Couture from the very beginning. By the end of the nineteenth century, as Paris established itself as the world capital of fashion, pleats became a language in their own right, used to sculpt silhouettes and give garments a new dimension. Lognon, which flourished in this context, naturally found its place alongside the greatest designers: Gabrielle Chanel, Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, Hubert de Givenchy, and many others saw its savoir-faire as a precious ally.

ATELIER LOGNON (C) Alix Marnat 02 — © le19M x Alix Marnat

In 1945, Gérard Lognon, Émilie’s great-grandson, took over the business. He modernised the operation and firmly established the Maison’s reputation in the art of handcrafted pleating, thanks to the use of cardboard moulds, known as “métiers,” which are emblematic of the profession. For over 150 years, the workshop has maintained this commitment to entirely manual work, where technical rigour is combined with an almost intuitive sensitivity. The Maison's archives, comprising over 3,000 pleating moulds, now constitute an exceptional heritage, bearing witness not only to the history of the workshop but also to the evolution of couture itself.

In 2013, Atelier Lognon joined the workshops of Maison Lemarié, becoming part of CHANEL’s Métiers d’art ecosystem. Since 2021, Atelier Lognon has been a resident at le19M.

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The savoir-faire of Atelier Lognon

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The history of the Maison

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Video

Behind the scenes of Beyond our Horizons: from Tokyo to Paris with Lemarié, Atelier Lognon, and Paloma

Lemarié and Atelier Lognon's collaborations with an artist from Trouver son monde

Lemarié

Behind the scenes of
Beyond our Horizons: from Tokyo to Paris
with Lemarié, Atelier Lognon, and Paloma