An embroidery Maison founded in 1949 in Paris by Jacques Lemonier, Atelier Montex has been part of the history of Haute Couture since its beginnings thanks to its innovative spirit. Driven by creative ambition, the Maison d’art has always cultivated a style of its own, blending traditional techniques with contemporary designs, and reimagining the conventions of embroidery and interpreting them in a new light.
Because it has always looked to the future, Atelier Montex stands out for its constant research process and its determination to push the boundaries of embroidery. For decades, in addition to working with sequins, glass beads, and other metallic threads, the Maison has explored and reimagined unexpected materials to transform them, such as paper, feathers, wood, and glass. At Atelier Montex, every project is an opportunity to take hybridisation a step further, combining traditional techniques with contemporary innovations. A veritable laboratory of ideas and practices, Atelier Montex draws on a collaborative team of 70 embroidery artisans with a wide range of talents and backgrounds, each possessing varied expertise ranging from embroidery and design to computer graphics.
This openness found a new form of expression in 2013 with the creation of Studio MTX, dedicated to decoration and interior design within Atelier Montex.
At the intersection of artisanal precision and industrial rigour, Atelier Montex remains true to its original mission, placing its expertise at the service of the luxury sector and enhancing the designers’ vision without ever betraying it. Its identity is based on a dual commitment: to preserve a unique artisanal heritage and to expand the possibilities of embroidery. In this context, the passing on of knowledge emerges as the central thread running throughout the Maison’s history. Each apprentice is thus introduced to the foundational techniques by artisans who take care to pass on not only a technique but also a way of observing and understanding the material. By both preserving and constantly reinterpreting its heritage, Atelier Montex, which was awarded the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (Living Heritage Company) label in 2013, is committed to being part of the future of fashion.
The savoir-faire of Atelier Montex
This unique creative vision, coupled with exceptional craftsmanship, has made Atelier Montex a quintessential Maison d’art. Each creation is the result of precise techniques, patiently repeated and passed down from generation to generation. The embroidery design—so technical that it is almost geometric—is followed by pricking on tracing paper, which allows the outline of the design to be traced onto the fabric with a needle, then pouncing, which reveals the embroidery pattern on the fabric. Next come the tools, including the Lunéville hook—an iconic technique dating back to nineteenth-century Lorraine—which embodies the desire to remain faithful to the founding techniques of French embroidery.
Traditionally fixed to the end of a wooden handle, this needle, shaped like a small fishhook, allows the threads, beads, and sequins needed to create patterns as complex as they are delicate to be grasped quickly and precisely. Mastering this tool takes time, as it involves repeating a movement until the hand becomes accustomed to the steady rhythm required for the thread or bead to be pricked, caught, pulled, and laid down with perfect consistency.
Along with the hook, the needle remains the essential tool for artisans seeking finesse. It enables the creation of extremely delicate designs, whether floral motifs with almost imperceptible veins, colour gradients achieved solely through the placement of the thread, or miniature forms. Mastering this technique also requires rigorous training, once again demonstrating the expertise of Atelier Montex.
Added to this expertise is the use of the Cornely, a century-old embroidery machine and a treasure of industrial heritage. Entirely mechanical, it can only be guided by hand by an experienced artisan and enables the creation of ornamental masterpieces using various materials that only the Cornely can embroider together. At Atelier Montex, these rare, meticulously maintained instruments continue to open up unexpected creative horizons by combining speed of execution with graphic freedom.
The history of the Maison
Founded in 1949 and specialising in the production of embroidered fabrics by the metre, the workshop supplied the post-war Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear houses with the exquisite fabrics that would bring their collections to life. The Maison’s history has thus unfolded with the changing seasons, driven by an unwavering commitment to quality. In the early 1980s, Annie Trussart joined the workshop and quickly became its Artistic Director. Her sensibility, inspired in particular by music and architecture, enriched the embroidery with diverse influences. She established a vision: that of exceptional and constantly reinvented craftsmanship. Trussart steered Atelier Montex towards the creation of unique motifs designed exclusively for each model, created novel combinations of materials, and devised three-dimensional embroidery samples in line with the times. This approach, which combines the rigour of historical technique with the freedom to experiment, enabled the Maison to forge close ties with the biggest names in fashion in the 1990s, from Yves Saint Laurent to Dior and Givenchy.
In 2011, Atelier Montex joined CHANEL’s Métiers d’art ecosystem. Since 2021, Atelier Montex has been a resident at le19M.
Aska Yamashita artistic Director
Since 2017, the story of Atelier Montex has continued under the artistic direction of Aska Yamashita. Having worked alongside Annie Trussart for over twenty years, she upholds the technical rigour and spirit of experimentation that define Atelier Montex’s unique approach. Her bold creativity and knowledge of historical craftsmanship allow her to explore new territories, creating unexpected combinations of traditional embroidery and contemporary techniques—3D printing, machine embroidery, screen printing, and laser cutting are all innovative techniques employed in groundbreaking creative collaborations with Michelin-starred chefs and renowned jewellers alike. This unique vision has enabled Atelier Montex to establish itself today as a key player in the world of embroidery.
