Mains d'avenir — The artisan's path: Adèle, fashion jewellery model maker at Desrues

Through a series of portraits and stories, the series "Mains d'avenir, the artisan’s path" showcases the career path, passions, and ideas of those who "make" French craftsmanship.

Today, we turn to Adèle, a model maker for Desrues, an exceptional jeweller since 1929.

The mere mention of "pewter" is enough to make Adèle's eyes light up. "You work with it a bit like wax: you can sculpt it and recast it. I love this malleable approach to metal," she explains.

After completing her baccalaureate followed by a professional qualification (CAP) in jewellery-making, she turned her attention to fashion jewellery: "I joined the Desrues Maison d'art as a work-study trainee for two years and I stayed on. Since 1929, Desrues has been making jewellery, buttons, and accessories for the most famous fashion houses. Today, I work there as a fashion jewellery model maker."

Adèle works exclusively with metal on a daily basis, but she appreciates the wide range of materials used in costume jewellery, from resin to feathers, fabric, wood, lacquer, rhinestones, and glass.

"A fashion jewellery collection can come together in a matter of weeks. It's very fast-paced, so you have to adapt and be proactive."

As a new recruit at the age of 20, she was involved in developing the theme for a collection. "We had to reinterpret the key words of the House of CHANEL, such as 'Mademoiselle' and 'Boy', through jewellery. It wasn't easy to find the right approach, but I learned a lot," she recalls.

In choosing a career in the Métiers d'art, Adèle has never been afraid to use machines and tools, both mechanical and traditional.

‘My favourite is probably the micromotor. It's the jewellery version of a dentist's drill,’ she explains with a smile. ‘I can sculpt with it by choosing the right tip. But there are also more traditional tools, such as the chisel, the burin and the torch, which I love to use for soldering.’

Adèle also puts her creativity to work on more personal projects: ‘Jewellery making is a profession, while I consider the rest to be hobbies. I love anything manual and regularly try my hand at new practices. Recently, I discovered cyanotype, a unique and intriguing printing technique for an amateur photographer such as myself!’

Although she enjoys talking about her profession to those who show interest, Adèle sometimes finds it difficult to fully convey her passion:

"When we welcome Year 10 work experience students to the workshop, I don't always find the right words. But it's an interesting challenge to find a hook that will captivate them. ‘

She particularly enjoys opportunities for exchange with others such as Mains d'avenir, le19M's fair devoted to the Métiers d'art. "Seeing all these people marvelling at our creations makes you take a step back and realise: yes, we do create beauty," she says.

Fully aware that the workshop where she works has a century of expertise that must be preserved, Adèle is committed to learning every day alongside her colleagues.

Between two models, Adèle allows herself to dream: "I'd like to make jewellery for film and theatre. Ever since I was little, I've loved costume design, the textures of costumes, and the characters' complexity . It's a whole world that is closely connected to that of jewellery."

In the meantime, the young woman regularly makes small objects for herself, such as the golden starfish clip she has pinned to her hair. These small personal pleasures allow her to remain passionate without ever growing tired of her work.